We boarded an overnight train in Kolkata around 7:30 P.M. to make the trip to Varanasi, known as one of the oldest living cities of the world. I was in an upper compartment, with a bed about 18 inches wide. We all managed to grab bits of sleep in between stopping at numerous stations along the way, more passengers getting loaded and settled at all hours and folks passing by to go to the restroom. (Speaking of the restroom, it was your typical "squatter" style with a sign asking not to go while at a station, since the refuse went straight onto the tracks.) We arrived in Varanasi around 6:30 A.M. and were greeted in the open air lobby by a cow and multiple dogs enjoying the shade and cool concrete floor.
Varanasi is situated on the north bank of the Ganges River and is known as the religious and cultural capital of India. Its known history dates back about 3500 years, during which it has continuously been populated. Our drive from the railway station to the hotel was made in small cars, as the streets are too narrow and full for a bus. In fact, the roads were full of water buffalo, cows, donkeys, horses, goats, pigs, motorized vehicles, bikes and people on foot. (pic 1)After getting settled in, several of us walked along the ghats (pronounced gotz). These are like steps that go down to the Ganges all along the banks through Varanasi. Devout Hindus make pilgrimages from all parts of India to bathe in the Ganges, whose water they believe to be sacred. Along the river, the ghats have been set up from which people can bathe before saying their daily prayers. We also were able to see a herd of water buffalo cooling themselves. (pic 3)We also saw bright green parrots flying freely, as well as the multi-colored saris spread out to dry along the ghats. (pic 2) It was an opportunity to see all types of fun and different people and things. (pics 4 & 5)
The next morning, we boarded a boat at 5:00 A.M. to float down the river and watch the morning rituals. (pic 6) We also saw several cremations taking place along the banks. Hindu believe that if you die in Varanasi, or have your ashes scattered in the Ganges here, you reach moksha. This is the "resting state" so to speak, that takes you out of the cycle of birth and rebirth (reincarnation). We are being told that the water level is incredibly low for this time of year. Usually in July, most of the ghats you see in the pictures are covered by the river. It was an overcast morning and relatively cool for here. The sunrise boatride was a wonderful way to start another day in Varanasi.
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